Scotland
1st May, Dalkeith, just outside
Edinburgh.
We set off from the Lake District yesterday and travelled nearly
non-stop to Edinburgh. The only visit on the way was to have a look at
some of the remains of Hadrian's Wall. Most of it was plundered in the
eighteenth century for roads and houses, and what's left doesn't really do the
original structure justice.
Hadrian's Wall.
We had a bit of difficulty finding a B&B in Edinburgh and finally headed to the outlying towns and found a good place in Dalkeith, eight miles from Edinburgh. We did a small exploratory trip into Edinburgh yesterday and ended up spending most of the morning there.
Scott memorial.
Edinburgh Castle is most imposing from Princes Street and the view of the city from the Castle equally so.
Above and below: Edinburgh Castle.
View of Edinburgh from Edinburgh Castle.
Holyrood Palace was very beautiful. We had a guided tour which I found a bit difficult to follow at times as it was in broad Scots!
Salisbury Craggs from Holyrood Palace.
We also went over St Giles Cathedral (now Presbyterian), which has some magnificent windows, one of which is twentieth century.
Western window in St Giles Church, Edinburgh.
Craigmillar Castle, Edinburgh.
After lunch in the car on the coast east of Edinburgh, we headed inland to visit some of the small towns. We had a lovely drive in bitterly cold weather, with heavy mists towards the end. We saw the ruins of Crichton Castle and also Neidpath Castle near Peebles, on the Tweed River.
Crichton Castle.
Inside Craigmillar Castle.
Courtyard of Crichton Castle.
River Tweed and Peebles from Neidpath Castle.
3rd May, Helensburgh.
We set off in lovely weather yesterday morning and, after only one wrong
turning (they are very casual about road signs here!), crossed the Forth Road
Bridge.
Bridge over the Firth of the Forth.
We then went and had a look over Stirling Castle, continuing towards the lochs and stopping in Drymen to stock up as this is a long weekend. We reached the southern end of Loch Lomond and then travelled north along it, stopping at a lovely parking place to have lunch.
Stirling Castle.
Robert the Bruce, Stirling Castle.
Loch Lomond and Ben Lomond.
We then went up to Creanlarich and made a wide circle back to Loch Lomond taking in Lochs Tay, Earn, Lubnaig and Katrine on our way. Then through to Helensburgh at the confluence of Gare Loch and the Clyde. After booking in at this B&B we set off along Gare Loch and then Loch Long where we stopped for supper. Then it was up Glen Croe to Rest and Be Thankful, where we stopped and turned around as we had satisfied our curiosity and there were streams of cars and caravans setting off for the long weekend. We even have a TV in our room in this B&B, so we watched for a while before going to bed. Today looks as if it's going to be another lovely sunny day and we head for the Highlands. I forgot to mention that this B&B is in Sinclair Road!
Ben More.
Loch Tay and Ben Lawers.
Ben Lawers from Killin.
Loch Earn.
Loch Katrine.
Loch Long at Arrochar.
Loch Tulla and Black Mount.
Lochan na h-Achlaise.
4th May, Isle of Skye.
We've had another magnificent day weather wise: bright, warm and sunny then
whole day. We left Helensburgh and went up along Loch Lomond again, which
was lovely in the morning sunshine. We then went up through Crianlarich to
Glencoe, through very scenic country. there is still now on top of many of
the high peaks, although it's rapidly melting in the warm weather. There
was snow on Ben Lomond when we passed it yesterday, but it had all melted by the
time we passed it today.
Glencoe.
Ben Nevis.
From Crianlarich we headed for Loch Ness and Inverness, going via a very narrow but beautiful road through Stratherrick on the eastern side. Petrol prices vary from around £1.25 to £1.41 and we found some reasonably priced in Inverness at £1.33. From there we went down Loch Ness on the western side, but Nessie failed to make an appearance. I forgot to mention that we had lunch under Ben Nevis, which we found after several wrong turns from Fort William.
Stratherrick.
Loch Ness.
Primroses near Loch Ness.
After Loch Ness we headed westwards to Skye. The ferry over cost £1.95, which I thought expensive for a five-minute hop. We managed to find a super B&B right on the sea shore, but is has a very steep road down to it, on gravel, which terrifies Ann.
Eilean Donan Castle on Loch Duigh.
Loch Alsh and the Isle of Skye.
Red Peril with Ann inside, on the ferry to Skye.
5th May, Poolewe in Wester Ross.
We went around Skye this morning and found everything closed, more or less as
our American B&B lady had warned us. Skye is very bleak and wild, rather
uninviting even in full sunshine, as we saw it. The roads are very narrow
with passing places every few yards, which are necessary as the verges are
either steep drops of between one and a hundred feet, or they are soft and
marshy turf, neither of which is very conducive to two-way traffic! Many
of the bigger mountains are completely barren at the top, but most have heather
growing at least halfway up. This must considerably soften the aspect when
it's all in bloom at the end of summer, but at this time of year there is very
little colour, mostly dull browns and greys. Back on the mainland we
headed north around the coast along some very pretty roads, some rather like
Skye, but others heavily wooded and green.
Cuillin Hills, Skye.
Dunvegan Castle, Skye.
Flora Macdonald Museum - an old black house.
I feel that in fairness to myself I should explain that yesterday's "gravel" road was really pebbles feet deep, and the first time we tried to get up the road we took it too slowly and bogged down, so we had to go back and rush up! After we had booked in at this B&B we took a short trip to the Inverewe Gardens which are famous for their subtropical plants. When we discovered that is would cost us 95p each we decided against going in!
6th May, a.m., near Golspie
We spent most of yesterday travelling, first of all up the west coast to
Ullapool, and then we crossed over to the east. The trip up the coast was
very pleasant, but we've left the sunshine back on the west coast. Here
it's overcast, but at least dry and not too cold. The two highlights of
the day were our visit to Sinclair Castle and then John o' Groats and Duncansby
in the far north-east.
Loch Gairloch with its beach.
At Loch Gairloch.
Loch Ewe.
Hill o' Many Stanes at Mid Clyth, ca 1800 B.C..
To get to Sinclair Castle, situated just outside Wick, was something of an adventure in itself. After leaving Wick you have to cross the main airport runway, and the sign there is most reassuring: you are instructed to stop when red lights are one, if if the barrier is not working, check for aircraft yourself before crossing! It's difficult to know whether the barrier is working just by looking at it, and most disconcerting after you've already ventured out into the danger zone and passed signs saying 'no stopping' and 'no turning' to see red lights greet you as you look down the runway! However, we made it in one piece and then proceeded along a very narrow and bumpy road to a spot in the middle of marshy ground with a sign saying 'footpath to castle'. It was not what I would have called a footpath; the original Sinclairs must have made a very similar trek across the fields when they were looking for a site to build their castle. We managed to keep our feet dry and arrived at the castle ruins, situated on some very high cliffs, with no safety barriers, overlooking Sinclair Bay. It is most picturesque and well worth a visit, even without the family connection.
Girnigoe Castle.
Sinclair Castle.
Sinclair and Girnigoe Castles.
The main attraction at Duncansby is the coast itself. It is at the extreme north-east of Scotland and is very rugged with impressive cliffs and stacks. Ann was feeling rather migrainey and so stayed in the car while I went exploring the area. Once again it was a long hike over marshy ground. but this time with a reasonable footpath most of the way to the cliffs and stacks.
The stacks at Duncansby in the N.E. of Scotland.
Hieland coo and calf.
We are in an excellent B&B just outside Golspie - a very spacious farmhouse with chickens, geese, ducks and cows in the yard outside, and I'm looking forward to whole Jersey milk at breakfast, having already had it with our tea last night. We'll post this later today as we head for the Yorkshire Moors.