Denmark, 1982

Denmark

6th April, Copenhagen
Well here we are in a comfortable room where we are paying less then we have paid anywhere so far. So much for astronomically expensive Copenhagen! The journey here from Hamburg was rather long in a very full train. We shared a compartment with a Canadian couple who have been on Eurail passes since November! The ferry crossing from Germany to Denmark was very cold and windy on deck so I spent most of it in the train while Ray froze outside!



The ferry crossing from Puttgarden to Rødby, heading for Copenhagen Harbour.



Copenhagen Harbour.

When we got to Copenhagen we were just looking around for a bank when a quiet, polite gentleman came up and asked us if we were looking for a room. We asked how much and he said 140 Kroner, but it was only later when we worked out that 10K = 1Z$ that we realised how cheap it was. A comfortable room with beds, sofa, table etc, breakfast included and the use of a bath! And the milk in the fridge in the kitchen is for us! Not surprisingly we have decided to spend three nights here. Our Eurail passes are valid on all the suburban trains here which makes life very easy. Once we had put our things in our room and been given coffee and bread and cheese by Mrs Jansen, we set out on a voyage of exploration. First to the Little Mermaid. We went through a park on our way there. Spring really hasn’t sprung here yet, with just the odd daffodil out, but the trees are still stark.


The Little Mermaid.

 After looking at and photographing the Little Mermaid we took an S-tog (train) into the city centre where we had a look at the Town Hall and walked along the main shopping street, drooling over beautiful glassware.


Copenhagen Town Hall.

The prices of everything are astronomical, except for chocolate – but we didn’t buy any! We got back here by about 9 p.m., by which time the light had almost gone. We had two compliments yesterday. The Canadian couple said we could not have been Australian because we were too clean! And Mr Jansen does not advertise his room, but instead meets long distance trains and chooses his guests himself! We have just had a very pleasant continental breakfast in our room and are now off to the Norwegian Embassy to negotiate a visa for Ray – we need it today as tomorrow is a public holiday.


Lunch time, 7th April.
The visa was not a problem – no questions asked, and it cost Z$10! We went to have a look at the Kastellet, 18th Century fortifications near the harbour, and much of it is still in use today.


Kastellet Moat.


Church in the Kastellet, with the Prison in the background on either side.

After that it was the changing of the guard at Amalienborg Palace. As the Queen was not in residence it was a rather small guard of about eight men.

Above and below, Changing the Guard at Amalienborg Palace in Copenhagen.



We also went to see the very impressive Marble Church nearby and then walked on to Nyhavn (the new harbour) dating from the 17th Century. It was very picturesque, and H.C. Andersen lived there for 20 years.


Marble Church near the Palace.


St Alban's Anglican Church in Copenhagen.


Nyhaven, where H.C.A. lived for 20 years.

We then went on to the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek (museum), but sadly were not allowed in because Ann’s “handbag” was too big! I always said it looked like a suitcase! We will post this on our way to Roskilde this afternoon.

P.S. Copenhagen is COLD.

Copenhagen 7th April, Evening
We’ve really walked ourselves off our feet today! After lunch we went out by train to Roskilde and saw everything of interest there. We started off at the town hall, a fascinating red brick Gothic building with very straight, geometric lines, parts of it dating from 1500, but mostly built in 1884.


Roskilde Town Hall.

Then we took a long walk to the Viking ship museum where there are five restored Viking ships dating from about 1000. These ships were all found sunk in the fjord at Roskilde. They are thought to have been sunk intentionally in an attempt block the fjord.


Tenth Century Viking Ship, salvaged from Roskilde Fjord.

We then went on to Roskilde Cathedral, the burial place of the Danish royalty. It is also main in red brick and Romanesque in style, with two very impressive towers. The sarcophagi of the royals were most interesting, ranging from a plain wooden black box looking like a trunk to highly ornate baroque structures about twelve feet tall.


Roskilde Cathedral, containing tombs of many of the Danish monarchs.


Roskilde Cathedral Organ.

We were very pleased to get back to Mr Jensen’s house after all that, and our usual cup of soup is just about ready.

8th April, Copenhagen
We’re just about to have supper, which will be very welcome after such a cold day as we’ve had. The temperature was 6oC with very high winds and intermittent sleet and snow, but despite all that we had a most enjoyable day. We started off by taking a train to Hillerød where we had a look at Frederiksborg Slot (Castle). It is situated on the shores of a lake and has been turned into a Danish museum of their royalty. The rooms were lovely, with the usual orange baroque ceilings and walls. One in particular was interesting, having portraits of all the konger og dronniger (kings and queens) of Denmark and a good deal of Europe too, as the Danish royal family extended itself to many thrones.


Above and below, Friederiksborg Slot, Hillerød.


 


Courtyard of Friederiksborg Slot.


Painting on the ceiling of the Audience Room at Friederiksborg Slot.

There is a little church in the castle where we heard some of the choir and organ. We then went on to Helsingør to look at Kronborg Castle which is the Elsinor Castle of Shakespeare’s Hamlet. The journey there was once again by train, and the Danish railway system is outstanding! The S-tog or urban network makes the London Underground look silly. Every station tells you exactly when the trains arrive at that station, and they are always precisely on time!



Above and below, Kronborg Slot (Hamlet's Castle) at Helsingør.


After Helsingør, which was appropriately cold and windy, we came home and straight out again to the laundrette. We are now relaxing over supper before going out to a free concert in St Alban’s Church: Pergolessi’s Stabat Mater. It’s now snowing heavily.

Morning of 10th April, (written in Oslo)
We woke up yesterday in Copenhagen to find it had snowed during the night. While it was very pretty, we had a rather slushy walk to the station. We decided to visit the botanical gardens before catching our 12.34 train to Oslo. There was nothing to see in the gardens by way of flowers, but it was worth a visit, looking lovely covered in snow.


View from our room, Copenhagen: winter returns.


Copenhagen Botanical Gardens.

 

On to Norway

 

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