UK, 1984

U.K.

6th April, On board B.A. City of Canterbury on approach to London Heathrow
Well here we are on board our B.A. Boeing 747, in the upstairs section of Club Class, all thanks to Gerald. And very comfortable it is too, although not as roomy as First Class was for me as far as leg stretching goes, but Ray has nothing in front of him. We were taken to Bulawayo Airport by one of the Falcon drivers on one of our buses and the flight to Harare on the Air Zimbabwe Boeing was uneventful. We spent our time at Harare Airport waiting in Gerald's office, which was far more congenial than the milling concourse downstairs! The First Officer has just given us the London weather report - cold and wet and the temperature is 4oC!

9th April, Shoreham-on-Sea
Well, they were not all that wrong about the temperature, but it hasn't been too bad. We arrived at Heathrow at 8.00 a.m. local time and we had to contend with the complete and utter chaos of Heathrow Terminal 3, where I had no problems with immigration, but Ray queued so long that the flight number signs in the baggage collection area had disappeared by the time he was through. Fortunately he had seen which stairs I had gone down, and I, meanwhile, had collected our luggage and was waiting patiently! We took the tube to South Ealing where Frances picked us up from the station. We unpacked and had a chat and then headed into town to see the bank and get concert tickets.

The next day we went to Kew. Spring seems late this year and it was terribly cold at times, made more so because Owen (aged three) doesn't move very fast! But it was a very pleasant visit.


Kew Gardens.

After breakfast yesterday morning Frances took us to Ealing Broadway from where we took a tube to Liverpool Street Station and then British Rail to Witham where Pete Oliver met us at the station. We had a very pleasant, if brief, stay with them. We saw all of the children at some stage: Ingrid and David no longer live at home but Ingrid came home to do laundry on Randi's washing machine and David was at home for the weekend. We four oldies went for a lovely long walk yesterday afternoon. It takes a very short time to walk out of Witham and into farm land. Then this morning we had a very complicated journey: Witham to London to - Norbiton (in Kingston-Upon-Thames, to pick up our car) and then on to Shoreham-on-Sea, where we arrived at 1.55 p.m. with Ray's appointment at 2.00 p.m. Pretty clever! We had had a letter from the Head at Shoreham College inviting Ray for an interview and so he had phoned from the Kings and fixed this up. So I am now writing this in our hired Fiesta outside the College. I'm not impressed with Shoreham-on-Sea, which is very industrial.

11th April, Oxford
I was not in the least impressed with Shoreham College either, as it was a very small school and badly equipped. I think, though, that they may offer me a post, and I was given a figure of around £9000 p.a. as an approximate guide to my salary, but no assistance with accommodation. I will probably turn them down if they do offer me a job, as we're not that desperate.

After our visit to Shoreham we made our way to the Charnocks who are thriving. We certainly felt more welcome there than last time, but at the same time it was a peculiar reception. I was put to labour in the garden, which I did not enjoy, particularly as I wasn't feeling very well anyway. Mark was his usual gushing self, and it was quite a relief to arrive at the Paynes where we had a genuine welcome.

This morning Mike took us to Blenheim Palace which was lovely. The grounds were laid out by Capability Brown and were most impressive.



Above and below, at Blenheim Palace.



Capability Brown's beautiful gardens at Blenheim Palace.

We have just returned from a guided tour of St Edward's School where Mike teaches. I dare say there are some universities which are not as well equipped!

13th April, Chippenham
Yesterday we left the Paynes around mid-morning and went via the Vale of the White Horse to Chippenham, stopping in Uppingham to admire the White Horse. We then went to Lackham only to find that David's course were in Chippenham for the day. I had phoned the previous evening and was told if I did not know his house they could not help me. So we went and admired Lacock, a most attractive village.



Above and below, in Lacock village.


We then started searching for a B&B to spend the night. There was a place in Lacock, but they were asking £10 each per night, which was way outside our budget. We carried on looking for about two hours for a place reasonably near to Chippenham, as I had left a message for David that I'd come and see him at 5.30 that evening. Eventually we found something in Chippenham itself - what a relief! The problem, we discovered later, was the Badminton Horse Trials, when accommodation is apparently always tight. We went to Lackham and had a chat with David and then back to Chippenham where we went for a walk and bumped into David! We couldn't see Julie Murray as they were out when we were in Chippenham, which I had discovered when I had phoned them when we were with Margaret.

Yesterday was a glorious day, the first real spring day since we arrived. The others had more than a hint of winter about them, but today is again lovely. We left Chippenham at about 9.00 a.m. and headed west to the Severn Bridge, stopping at Castle Coombe on the way.


At Castle Coombe.


Castle Coombe church steeple.


By Brook in Castle Coombe.

After crossing the Severn we stopped at Chepstow to look over the castle.



Above and below, Chepstow Castle.

Then it was along the Wye Valley to the small village of Tintern Parva and on to Tintern Abbey.


Wye Valley.


Tintern Parva.


The Presbytery exterior, Tintern Abbey.


Gothic arches in The Crossing, Tintern Abbey.


Great West Window in the West Front of Tintern Abbey.

We then took tiny by roads to Raglan and Raglan Castle.


Raglan Castle Gate House.


Raglan Castle interior.

By then we had had enough of Ancient Monuments and so we followed small roads to cross mid-Wales and at about 5.30 p.m. we arrived at Rhayader where we booked into a farmhouse B&B. We do find the lambs enchanting, but it's a pity they grow up so stupid! That's if they grow up at all: the farmer here tells us that he sells to an abattoir in Dover as he gets a much better price than if he sold locally. The Dover people export to France. The daffodils leading up the farm drive are absolutely beautiful.


Sheep farm in Wales.

After settling in we went for a drive round the neighbouring man-made reservoirs. We are having a lovely time, despite us both still having foul colds which we picked up at Falcon, not here!


Reservoir in Powys near Rhayader.


Victorian influence at a reservoir in Powys.


Another reservoir in Powys.

16th April, Thirlmere in the Lake District
This diary is certainly not being written daily! As we were in no hurry we continued along the smallest possible roads. From Rhayader we headed north through the Cambrian Mountains and through Snowdonia to Llangollen, where we visited Valle Crucis Abbey, a Cistercian Abbey, much of which is still standing.


Cambrian Mountains.


In Snowdonia.



Above and below, Valle Crucis Abbey.


We got to the Hodgeses in Wrexham in the afternoon and were very pleased to see them again, as they were us. We spent two nights with them and yesterday Frank, Ray and I went and had a look at Flint Castle and Basingwerk Abbey, both very dilapidated. After that we went on to Denbigh Castle only to find that it had closed already. We left Wrexham around mid-morning and headed up the motorway, arriving here about 1.30 p.m.. We booked into a farm B&B which we stayed at last time we were here. We drove into Coniston to do some shopping, but driving is not pleasant as there are already hundreds of cars. I shudder to think what it's like in the summer. So we came back to our B&B and then set off on a walk. I didn't get very far so came back to do various things, including getting the diary up to date!


Thirlmere.

20th April, Campbeltown
We left the Lake District via Ullswater, which was really lovely. The sun was shining intermittently and there was snow on the mountains behind the waster, which was absolutely calm and mirror-like.



Above and the next four photos, scenes around Ullswater.





We then had another feast of ancient monuments, mostly in moderately overcast and sometimes wet weather:  we visited Brougham Castle, Lanercost Priory, Caerlaverock Castle (where we were told that our National Trust passes were not valid in Scotland, but we continued to use them after that with no trouble) and finally Sweetheart Abbey, where the custodian told us, quite correctly, that we were very brave to go exploring the ruins in the weather we were experiencing!



Above and below, Brougham Castle.



Lanercost Priory.


Window in Lanercost Priory.


Thomas, the Second Baron Dacre, and his wife, Elizabeth Greystoke (died 1516), rest in this tomb in Lanercost Priory, erected by Thomas in about 1518.



Above and below, Caerlaverock Castle.




Above and below, Sweetheart Abbey.



After that we started looking in earnest for somewhere to spend the night. Finally we found a place near Dumfries. I went in and was quoted £12 each for the night and turned it down as it was far too expensive for us. The lady recognised my accent as "Rhodesian" and offered me £8, which I accepted and we got chatting. It turned out that she is Tassie Gwyther's sister!! Naturally we had a good time exchanging news, but (sadly) we still paid £16 before we left the next morning. We then headed deeper into Scotland, admiring Loch Ken and the Grey Mare's Tail waterfall.


Loch Ken.


Grey Mare's Tail Waterfall.

We then headed up the east coast through Girvan and navigated our way through Glasgow and spent the night in Helensburgh. All the little rivers are in full flood with much of the snow still melting and we passed some spectacular waterfalls in the mountains.


Girvan Harbour.

We passed Loch Awe, looking beautiful, and stopped briefly at Duncraigaig Cairn, a Bronze Age burial mound about 4000 years old.


Loch Awe.


Duncraigaig Cairn.

While in Helesburgh we phoned Tim Middleton's parents (Tim arrived at Falcon from Scotland at the start of last term) and they have kindly offered to put us up for the next two nights. They live near Campbeltown in Kintyre, which is a lovely area.


A view of Southend from Hill Cottage (at the Middletons).

We drove to the Mull of Kintyre this morning and walked over it in the mist and driving rain - that sounds most unpleasant, but it wasn't. Most invigorating. We are not sure where we will head tomorrow. Today is Good Friday, so we are missing most of the Easter traffic. On the east coast the weather is better than it is here.



Above and below, Mull of Kintyre.


22nd April, Easter Sunday morning, Inverness
Yesterday we first headed north through Oban, where the day proved to be not without its little excitements. Just outside Oban we hit a hole in the road and punctured a front tyre. We were not the only ones: as we ground to a halt we passed one car busy changing a wheel and we could see another just ahead of us. The police, who materialised immediately because we were on a blind corner, were most helpful. They told us while they helped change our wheel that there was another car just around the corner. We then went to the place recommended by the police to get our tyre repaired, but they were just closing, so we continued on our way and eventually got a new tyre as the old one needed replacing. This necessitated a phone call to the company in London as the repair was more than £20. We are assuming we will get our £28 back! Our journey eventually took us east along Glen Mor heading for Inverness through Glen Mor and along Loch Lochy. We also took in Loch Tarff, one of the smallest of the natural lochs but still featuring several small islets, one of which you can see to the left in the photograph below.


Loch Lochy.


Loch Tarff.


Loch Ness.


Loch Ness.

It was a lovely day, although there was rain to begin with, but lots of sunshine later. The traffic was quite heavy and there was little chance to avoid it because there are so few roads this far north. However, we did take a minor road along Loch Ness and that was lovely. We're not wild about our B&B, which is quite expensive for what we are getting. We had a walk last night along the river and past some shops. It stays light very late here.

24th April, on the shores of Loch Tay
We decided to head towards Aberdeen when we left Inverness and after some rather boring country past Elgin on a route recommended by our A.A. guide, we decided to head for Perth. Of note in this rather uninteresting stretch was Huntly Castle, which we dropped in on. This was Clan Gordon's ancestral home dating back to the twelfth century.


A hillside walk from a layby on a road near Elgin.


Huntly Castle.

Our route towards Perth took us through much more interesting loch and mountain terrain in the Grampians.


Breagach Hill.



Above and below, in the Grampians.


We passed Glenshee where there were hundreds of skiers. There is still a lot of snow about, but I expect it will melt in the next few days as temperatures have gone up considerably.



Above and below, Glenshee ski slopes.


We found a delightful B&B on Loch Tay not far from Killin. Our room is vast and very comfortable and the couple who run the B&B are delightful. They are a retired Headmistress and Bursar, and he wears a kilt. A lot of Chariots of Fire was filmed in Crieff and Comrie and our host was one of the extras! Apparently watching the film in Crieff was a rather amusing experience with much whispering, nudging and pointing. As it is so lovely here we decided to spend two nights. Just up the road from us is Bolfracks House, a big early eighteenth century mansion with beautiful gardens.


Daffodils line the driveway of Bolfracks House.

 



Above and below, Loch Tay, as seen from the road just below our B&B.


Loch Tay.

Yesterday morning we set off to St Andrews and made our way through very scenic country via Killin, Loch Earn, Loch Lubnaig, Glen Ogle and Crieff, as seen in the next four photos.


River Dochart at Killin.


Loch Earn.


Loch Lubnaig.


Heilan coos at Glen Ogle.


Slow wet school children crossing at Crieff.

It was a beautiful day and the Scots were out in force on the beach and golf course in St Andrews, which is a lovely grey stone city. We wandered around the cathedral ruins and through the town where we bought some smoked mackerel for lunch.


Golf at St Andrews.


St Andrews Cathedral and St Rule's Tower.

Then we left St Andrews and headed for Lochs Tummel and Rannoch, during which we were on the A9 heading north for a short while. The south-bound carriageway was solid nose-to-tail and I am glad we decided not to head out of Scotland on Easter Monday! We did see several school children in uniform, however, so it is obviously not a public holiday for all. The drive along Tummel and Rannoch was beautiful as was our homeward drive through the Breadalbane Mountains along Glen Lyon and the bottom of Ben Lawers on a very narrow road with only the sheep for company. I'll leave Ray to tell you how we got from Tayside to Warwick in one day!


Loch Tummel from Queen's View.


Loch Rannoch.


Breadalbane Mountains near Loch Tay.

25th April, Warwick
Briefly, along the motorway. It was once again a cloudless day, although a bit of haze. The various lochs we passed were quite beautiful: still, with perfect reflections of the trees and mountains. Once on the motorway it was quite a different story. We did about 65mph most of the time, although for some stretches it was 70mph in order to keep out of the juggernauts' ways! The traffic was incredible, the M6 being one of the biggest industrial motorways in Britain. We stopped at several service along the way. These are VAST lay bys with about 500 cars at any one time and they include garages, shops and restaurants. We arrived at Rugby exhausted and trundled along to Warwick, taking the first B&B we found. Today we head to Ascot where I have an interview at Heathfield School for girls.

28th April, Culford in Suffolk
The most frightening thing about the motorwasy was the vehicle transporters, enormous double deckers carrying nine cars stacked at what appear to be all odd angles, five on top and four down below, hurtling down the motorway at 70+mph!  The interview at Ascot was a complete waste of time, and suffice it to say that I terminated the interview myself. From Ascot we headed for Kent which was pretty countryside, but the apple orchards were not yet in bloom.


Oast houses in Kent.

The next day we were off to Suffolk through the Dartford Tunnel under the Thames. We found Renate and Culford thriving and we also visited Ian Gwyther yesterday and I ended up being interviewed by the Head there, having been told by his secretary the day before that he didn't wasnt to see me! However, wonderful as the school was, the whole thing was fraught with difficulties and we are now happily resigned to staying in Zimbabwe for a few more years.


Lavenham in Suffolk.

29th April, London
We left Renate quite early yesterday and found our way around London to get to Heathrow where we returned our car. They did refund us the money we forked out on the replacement tyre, which was very satisfactory. We then caught the tube to St James's Park and the Salvation Army Hotel where we left our things and then went our separate ways. I just window shopped while Ray bought some records. We had supper back at the hotel and then off to the Barbican to see the Royal Shakespeare Company production of Measure for Measure which we both thoroughly enjoyed.

30th April, Our wedding anniversary
Yesterday morning we (and half the rest of the world) set off for Kew. Another beautiful day, but we have not yet shed our jerseys, although there are many Poms sporting shorts and very white legs! One thing about Kew is that it is so vast you don't realise that there are thousands of other people there too. The blossom trees were quite beautiful!



Above and the next three photos below, cherry blossom in Kew Gardens.





Copper beech, silver birch and wild cherry blossom, Kew Gardens.



Above and below, rhododendrons, Kew Gardens.



Lake in Kew Gardens.


Maple tree, Kew Gardens.

Then back to the hotel for lunch before we set out for Kensington Gardens where the whole world and his wife were taking the air. We went around Kensington Palace State Appartments, and our National Trust passes have now paid for themselves!


Kensington Gardens.


Kensington Palace Gardens.

We then caught a bus to Speakers Corner in Hyde Park where we spent a very amusing half hour. Then back to the hotel for supper before we set off for the Barbican and a concert.


Hyde Park Speakers' Corner.


Hyde Park Speakers' Corner.

1st May, Elaine's birthday and Pat and Shirley's wedding anniversary
The concert was most enjoyable, but I must say that both the Barbican Hall and the Theatre are TOO BIG. We, of course, were sitting up in the gods, and paid £4 each for our seats. For that price in the Elizabeth Hall or even the Festival Hall you would be much closer to what's going on! We spent most of yesterday shopping and went to feed the ducks at St James's Park in the evening. Today a little more shopping in the morning and then in the afternoon we went to the British Museum, not to do anything other than to look at the Manuscript Saloon (their name for it). We both had great delight in looking at all that was on display which included so many of the great names in literature, science and music, and also the wonderful illuminated manuscripts. Quite the best exhibits for me were Vaughan Williams' Sea Symphony and Britten's War Requiem. We fed the birds again this evening and started preparing for our departure to Madrid tomorrow.

On to Madrid

 

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